Paraloop Dun

Fly: Henk Verhaar, Photograph: Hans Weilenmann

Hook: Any suitable dry fly hook, such as TMC 900BL
Thread: UNI, size 8/0
Tail: Four moose body hairs, two by two
Abdomen: Turkey biot
Thorax: Dubbing, dry fly quality (or suitably waterproofed), preferably coarse, such as seal's fur
Hackle/wing: Dry fly quality hackle, grizzly
Wingpost: Monofilament


This is a parachute dry fly variant I first encountered in (again) Fly Fishing&Fly Tying, devised by Ian Moutter.

It makes for a particularly well-floating, low riding mayfly imitation. It combines the good floating properties of a parachute fly (it'a actually a better floater than a parachute) with the good silhouette to the fish of a Comparadun. To achieve this goal it gives up some of the visibility a parachute has (can have) to the angler.

Tying instructions:

Tying is fairly straightforward, with the tails being tied in first, after which the monofilament hackle post is attached, at the same location a standard parachute wing post is tied in. Use .20 mm mono (3X) and make a loop, tied in with the closed end pointing forward. Set upright by making a thread dam in front, and reinforce the post's base with tying thread. Prepare the hackle feather as you would for a normal parachute and tie in by the butt, in front of the post, tip pointing backwards. Set it upright along the post and make a few wraps at the post/feather stem combination base, locking the feather in its upright position.

Make the abdomen from the turkey biot, wrapping it right up to the hackle post, and tie off in front of it. Wrap the hackle up the post quite a way, then down again, and tie off on the post base, or on the hook shank. Use your favourite parachute hackling technique, such as employing a gallows tool, or rotating the hook 90 degrees downward in the vise (eye pointing down; just as van Klinken ties his Klinkhamer hackles). My experience is that, if a wing/hackle post is sufficiently reinforced with tying thread, parachute hackling can be done without specific tools or techniques other than rotary hackle pliers and the occasional use of the left hand for controlling the post.

With the post sufficiently hackled (you'll need long, high quality hackles for this; alternatively use two or more hackles), dub the thorax. Leave some room for a head. Bring the hackle post forward and down over the thorax and attach the free end to the hook shank just behind the eye. Secure the mono, clip off excess, make a tidy head and whip finish.

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© 2000 Hans Weilenmann
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